Istanbul: strong sun, stronger coffee
Alright, I'm rounding the corner to the finish line of honeymoon blog completion! A little burnt out, but I'm giving this all I've got because Istanbul deserves only my finest work (no pressure Tanya!)
We arrived to Istanbul on the evening of August 9th with a airport pick up, or so we thought. We got off the plane, grabbed our bags and dashed out of customs only to be met by a sea of drivers, none of which were ours. We scoured through the crowds of cabbies and chauffeurs, but our "Istanbul Home Suite" sign was no where to be found. Crap! This is a huge city and we had no idea where this place was....now what? Since we couldn't get Internet access, we tried calling our hotel, but we had the wrong number. Finally, we found a lady willing to help us. She worked at a cell phone kiosk in the airport and let us use her phone and Internet. We quickly learned English was not spoken widely in Turkey. But, this lady let us linger at her booth, made a few calls for us, and finally, two hours later, connected us with a driver who had supposedly been there the whole time (yeah right...)
Either way, no harm, no foul, just a few hours missed, and soon enough we were off to our apartment. And the driver couldn't have been more pleasant! He offered us crackers and water as soon as we entered his van, and gave his best stab at English for the next 30 minutes as we headed into town....explained a lot of history and cultural norms to us...it was a fun and informative drive. Arrived late at our apartment but settled in quickly, then it was off to bed.
Next thing we know, it's 5am, pitch black, and out of no where comes the call to prayer...we'd soon learn this was not out of no where; call to pray was five times a day: dawn, midday, middle of the afternoon, just after sunset, and at night fall (about two hours after sunset). It's a beautiful sounding prayer (recited in song) and goes something like this:
1 Allah u Akbar, Allah u Akbar
-- Allah is Great, Allah is Great
2-Ash-hadu al-la Ilaha ill Allah - Ash-hadu al-la Ilaha ill Allah
-- I bear witness that there is no divinity but Allah
3 Ash-hadu anna Muhammadan Rasulullaah
-- I bear witness that Muhammad is Allah's Messenger
Ash-hadu anna Muhammadan Rasulullaah.
-- I bear witness that Muhammad is Allah's Messenger
4 Hayya la-s-saleah - Hayya la-s-saleah
-- Hasten to the prayer, Hasten to the prayer
5 Hayya la-l-faleah - Hayya la-l-faleah
-- Hasten to real success, Hasten to real success,
6 Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar
-- Allah is Great, Allah is Great
7 La Ilaha ill Allah
-- There is no divinity but Allah
Of course the first time we heard it at 5am it sounded a bit spooky, but overtime it adopted a very rich and fulfilling sound that resonated throughout the city.
A few hours later, it was time to wake up for real. We were staying on the outskirts of the Old City...a perfect walking location to many of the sites (Grand Bazar, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Blue Mosque).
Below are a few pictures in and around our apartment. We got this place for 140 euro a night....two bedroom, kitchen, living room...great price, minus the views!
(I'd been neglecting my laundry duty for far too long....needed underwear!)
Shortly after waking up, it was off to explore the city, map in hand (Jo, you would have been proud!)
We had been forewarned of rug salesmen, but no more than 20 minutes after walking around, we were sucked into our first (but only!) sales pitch. We had been on the street, looking at Hagia Sophia when a nice gentleman walked up to us and started kindly explaining the sites. Kevin and I are both well travel and didn't see this coming....he was good! Next thing we knew, we were walking down the street to his shop to take a look at rugs. So up the stairs we went in a rickety old building to the 3rd floor where he offered us tea "for friendship" and showed us some beautiful handmade rugs. A delicious apple tea and 20 awkward minutes later, we finally convinced him that 1) we were not going to buy a rug right now, but 2) if we did, we'd be back! So off we went, vowing to never accept tea "for friendship" ever again.
Our first stop was Yerebatan Saray (also know as Basilica Cistern). An eerie cavern built by Constantinople around 532 AD, held up below ground by 336 columns. The Cistern stored water for the Great Palace and nearby buildings. A dark and cool reprive from the busy streets above.
Afterwards we headed over to the old prison (converted to a Four Seasons Hotel) and passed by Hagia Sophia and a rug maker along the way.
Built from 1918 - 1919, this jailhouse turned Four Seasons was the first jailhouse in the capital of the Ottoman Empire. I can honestly say, I wish we were in jail!
Next we headed to Topkapi Palace- the seat of the Ottman Empire for nearly four centuries. Consisting of a sprawling buildings arranged around several courtyards, it is situated on a hill with uninterrupted views of the Bosphorus River and Asia continent. Beautiful!
At the main entrance
A quick stop for Tanya's kitten ADD...cutesy!!
Sorry...back to the subject at hand. Below are some pictures inside the palace...beautiful courtyards, halls, living quarters and terraces.
Above building on the right reminded me of the main courtyard at the Red Fort, New Dehli.
From here it was off to the Blue Mosque..a check off the ol' bucket list!
A view of the Blue Mosque from Sultamens Square
men washing their feet before entering for prayer
we had to wait in the courtyard till prayer was over....a perfect opportunity to sneak around the grounds.
This guy likes church as much as we did as kids!
20-30 minutes later we were allowed inside. Below are pictures from within
Back out at Sultanahmet Square, we decided to head to the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 1,200 shops, it is a shoppers (Kevin & Tanya!) paradise.
paying to pee!
Before getting into the thick of it, we stopped for our first Turkish coffee- they've got the Greek beat on thickeness!
After fueling up, it was time to bring on the shopping and beautiful colors!
After a few hours and the purchase of a really cool serving bowl, we headed home to rest up for dinner.
Right before sunset we showered up and headed back out to find a rooftop dinner spot.
This place was perfect and we spent the next few nights dining here having dinner and watching the sunset. There were serveral other rooftop bars in the area, but none rivaled the views, service, hospitality and costs quiet like this (when I remember the name of it, I'll add it in)
After dinner we headed to a hookah bar for apple spiced hookah- delish!
And if our first full day wasn't full enough, we managed to lock ourselves on the balcony when we got home. Up on the 3rd floor for at least 45 minutes we yelled out into the dark hoping for someone to help. We finally drew the attention of some neighbors on their rooftop. They didn't speak English, but it was apparent we were stuck and needed help. One of the younger guys ran over and called our apartment manager....2 hours, a deadbolted door and trip to the neighboring hardware store later, we were able to take down the door with a teeny-tiny Allen wrench.... who would have thought!
Finally we were back inside....never to use our broken door or balcony again :( Oh well, at least we were off the deck!
Next day was my birthday-eve (yes, this is a celebrated holiday!) and today we headed out to the Egyptian Spice market, then over to the new city.
Pics below of Kevin on his spice market shopping spree!
With bags of fresh spices, coffee, and a happy husband in hand, we headed accross the bridge for some REAL shopping!
Wandering the streets in search of some retail therapy, we came upon the Galata Tower. Glad we found it...cool little detour!
views from the top
Okay, focus...we were here to shop and needed to find our fix, and quick! First we came upon a music shop or two...
then a beautiful cathedral...
we even threw a quick doner kabob lunch in there...
and then, as if the sky had opened and the heavens shone down upon us, standing before my eyes was a ZARA!!!
Okay, so maybe it wasn't standing before me, and maybe I whined enough to get a cab and travel 20 minutes to get to it, but hey, this makes for a better story! I was a happy birthday-eve girl and Kevin was a trooper! He sucked it up for the next 2 hours, pulling clothes off the racks, acting as my traveling clothes hanger, suggesting outfits, grabbing sizes...it was a perfect birthday shopping spree!
After our whirlwind Zara trip, we were exchasuted and ready to head home. Grabbed a cab back to our apartment and rested for a while before heading out for dinner at our favorite rooftop establishment. I should also mention, today was not only the Eve of my birthday, but the Eve of Ramadan; we were in for a cultural treat!
On mosques throughout the city, signs were strung from minrets wishing a happy Ramadan to all. After dinner we quickly collected our bill and headed out to the Blue Mosque to get in on the evenings excitment.
Excitment was in the air....people scurring into the Mosque to celebrate and talked amoungst eachother in wispered but hurrid voices. It reminded us a lot of Christmas Eve...a time for reflection, celebration, and being with those you love. A large screen was posted in the courtyard of the mosque showing a spritial leader inside reading from the Quran. Very moving.
We were not allowed in during prayer, but made our way to the side where we'd peaked in the day before. Over there we found 4 men getting ready to perform a chant. This chant would continue for the next half hour as the Quran contined to be read allowed.
It was a very powerful and emtional experience. Regardless of your personal beliefs, it was inspiring to see people from around the world come together to celebrate common goals of patience, purity, forgiveness, and humility. The true meaning of Ramadan.
Next morning it was Birthday Time! Kevin woke up early and suprised me with my favorite coffee (Nes Cafe), breakfast, fresh orange juice (the street vendors make the best!) and a single red rose in a turkish vase. I have the best husband ever!
After breakfast it was off to the Turkish bathhouse for some pampering! Obviously we didn't take pictures, but check out their website. http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr/asp/index.asp Regardless of what travel books and websites might tell you, this is truley the best in town!
After being massage and bathed to bliss (Kevin called it abuse), we headed out to Asia for lunch (see, I told you he's the best!)
proof that we were in Asia ;)
And he even wine and dinned me at the local Turkish fast food joint...I'm tellin' ya ladies, he's a keeper!
post meal soup we assumed?...
Headed back to the ferry terminal and back home to rest up before our Whirling Dervish show and dinner! I kid with Kevin that the whirling dervish show was the most boring thing I've ever done on my birthday, but he's not to blame...I had insisted.
An hour of our life we wish back, but a funny story for the grandkids somday...I guess! Off to dinner we went to spend our last few hours of our honeymoon celebrating over a turkish feast
Early the next morning it was off to the airport and back to reality. We were sad to see our honeymoon end, but eager to get home and start our new life together as husband and wife!
A trip of a lifetime: never forgotten, treasured forever.
We arrived to Istanbul on the evening of August 9th with a airport pick up, or so we thought. We got off the plane, grabbed our bags and dashed out of customs only to be met by a sea of drivers, none of which were ours. We scoured through the crowds of cabbies and chauffeurs, but our "Istanbul Home Suite" sign was no where to be found. Crap! This is a huge city and we had no idea where this place was....now what? Since we couldn't get Internet access, we tried calling our hotel, but we had the wrong number. Finally, we found a lady willing to help us. She worked at a cell phone kiosk in the airport and let us use her phone and Internet. We quickly learned English was not spoken widely in Turkey. But, this lady let us linger at her booth, made a few calls for us, and finally, two hours later, connected us with a driver who had supposedly been there the whole time (yeah right...)
Either way, no harm, no foul, just a few hours missed, and soon enough we were off to our apartment. And the driver couldn't have been more pleasant! He offered us crackers and water as soon as we entered his van, and gave his best stab at English for the next 30 minutes as we headed into town....explained a lot of history and cultural norms to us...it was a fun and informative drive. Arrived late at our apartment but settled in quickly, then it was off to bed.
Next thing we know, it's 5am, pitch black, and out of no where comes the call to prayer...we'd soon learn this was not out of no where; call to pray was five times a day: dawn, midday, middle of the afternoon, just after sunset, and at night fall (about two hours after sunset). It's a beautiful sounding prayer (recited in song) and goes something like this:
1 Allah u Akbar, Allah u Akbar
-- Allah is Great, Allah is Great
2-Ash-hadu al-la Ilaha ill Allah - Ash-hadu al-la Ilaha ill Allah
-- I bear witness that there is no divinity but Allah
3 Ash-hadu anna Muhammadan Rasulullaah
-- I bear witness that Muhammad is Allah's Messenger
Ash-hadu anna Muhammadan Rasulullaah.
-- I bear witness that Muhammad is Allah's Messenger
4 Hayya la-s-saleah - Hayya la-s-saleah
-- Hasten to the prayer, Hasten to the prayer
5 Hayya la-l-faleah - Hayya la-l-faleah
-- Hasten to real success, Hasten to real success,
6 Allahu Akbar, Allahu Akbar
-- Allah is Great, Allah is Great
7 La Ilaha ill Allah
-- There is no divinity but Allah
Of course the first time we heard it at 5am it sounded a bit spooky, but overtime it adopted a very rich and fulfilling sound that resonated throughout the city.
A few hours later, it was time to wake up for real. We were staying on the outskirts of the Old City...a perfect walking location to many of the sites (Grand Bazar, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Blue Mosque).
Below are a few pictures in and around our apartment. We got this place for 140 euro a night....two bedroom, kitchen, living room...great price, minus the views!
(I'd been neglecting my laundry duty for far too long....needed underwear!)
Shortly after waking up, it was off to explore the city, map in hand (Jo, you would have been proud!)
We had been forewarned of rug salesmen, but no more than 20 minutes after walking around, we were sucked into our first (but only!) sales pitch. We had been on the street, looking at Hagia Sophia when a nice gentleman walked up to us and started kindly explaining the sites. Kevin and I are both well travel and didn't see this coming....he was good! Next thing we knew, we were walking down the street to his shop to take a look at rugs. So up the stairs we went in a rickety old building to the 3rd floor where he offered us tea "for friendship" and showed us some beautiful handmade rugs. A delicious apple tea and 20 awkward minutes later, we finally convinced him that 1) we were not going to buy a rug right now, but 2) if we did, we'd be back! So off we went, vowing to never accept tea "for friendship" ever again.
Our first stop was Yerebatan Saray (also know as Basilica Cistern). An eerie cavern built by Constantinople around 532 AD, held up below ground by 336 columns. The Cistern stored water for the Great Palace and nearby buildings. A dark and cool reprive from the busy streets above.
Afterwards we headed over to the old prison (converted to a Four Seasons Hotel) and passed by Hagia Sophia and a rug maker along the way.
Built from 1918 - 1919, this jailhouse turned Four Seasons was the first jailhouse in the capital of the Ottoman Empire. I can honestly say, I wish we were in jail!
Next we headed to Topkapi Palace- the seat of the Ottman Empire for nearly four centuries. Consisting of a sprawling buildings arranged around several courtyards, it is situated on a hill with uninterrupted views of the Bosphorus River and Asia continent. Beautiful!
At the main entrance
A quick stop for Tanya's kitten ADD...cutesy!!
Sorry...back to the subject at hand. Below are some pictures inside the palace...beautiful courtyards, halls, living quarters and terraces.
Above building on the right reminded me of the main courtyard at the Red Fort, New Dehli.
From here it was off to the Blue Mosque..a check off the ol' bucket list!
A view of the Blue Mosque from Sultamens Square
men washing their feet before entering for prayer
we had to wait in the courtyard till prayer was over....a perfect opportunity to sneak around the grounds.
This guy likes church as much as we did as kids!
20-30 minutes later we were allowed inside. Below are pictures from within
Back out at Sultanahmet Square, we decided to head to the Grand Bazaar. The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 1,200 shops, it is a shoppers (Kevin & Tanya!) paradise.
paying to pee!
Before getting into the thick of it, we stopped for our first Turkish coffee- they've got the Greek beat on thickeness!
After fueling up, it was time to bring on the shopping and beautiful colors!
After a few hours and the purchase of a really cool serving bowl, we headed home to rest up for dinner.
Right before sunset we showered up and headed back out to find a rooftop dinner spot.
This place was perfect and we spent the next few nights dining here having dinner and watching the sunset. There were serveral other rooftop bars in the area, but none rivaled the views, service, hospitality and costs quiet like this (when I remember the name of it, I'll add it in)
After dinner we headed to a hookah bar for apple spiced hookah- delish!
And if our first full day wasn't full enough, we managed to lock ourselves on the balcony when we got home. Up on the 3rd floor for at least 45 minutes we yelled out into the dark hoping for someone to help. We finally drew the attention of some neighbors on their rooftop. They didn't speak English, but it was apparent we were stuck and needed help. One of the younger guys ran over and called our apartment manager....2 hours, a deadbolted door and trip to the neighboring hardware store later, we were able to take down the door with a teeny-tiny Allen wrench.... who would have thought!
Finally we were back inside....never to use our broken door or balcony again :( Oh well, at least we were off the deck!
Next day was my birthday-eve (yes, this is a celebrated holiday!) and today we headed out to the Egyptian Spice market, then over to the new city.
Pics below of Kevin on his spice market shopping spree!
With bags of fresh spices, coffee, and a happy husband in hand, we headed accross the bridge for some REAL shopping!
Wandering the streets in search of some retail therapy, we came upon the Galata Tower. Glad we found it...cool little detour!
views from the top
Okay, focus...we were here to shop and needed to find our fix, and quick! First we came upon a music shop or two...
then a beautiful cathedral...
we even threw a quick doner kabob lunch in there...
and then, as if the sky had opened and the heavens shone down upon us, standing before my eyes was a ZARA!!!
Okay, so maybe it wasn't standing before me, and maybe I whined enough to get a cab and travel 20 minutes to get to it, but hey, this makes for a better story! I was a happy birthday-eve girl and Kevin was a trooper! He sucked it up for the next 2 hours, pulling clothes off the racks, acting as my traveling clothes hanger, suggesting outfits, grabbing sizes...it was a perfect birthday shopping spree!
After our whirlwind Zara trip, we were exchasuted and ready to head home. Grabbed a cab back to our apartment and rested for a while before heading out for dinner at our favorite rooftop establishment. I should also mention, today was not only the Eve of my birthday, but the Eve of Ramadan; we were in for a cultural treat!
On mosques throughout the city, signs were strung from minrets wishing a happy Ramadan to all. After dinner we quickly collected our bill and headed out to the Blue Mosque to get in on the evenings excitment.
Excitment was in the air....people scurring into the Mosque to celebrate and talked amoungst eachother in wispered but hurrid voices. It reminded us a lot of Christmas Eve...a time for reflection, celebration, and being with those you love. A large screen was posted in the courtyard of the mosque showing a spritial leader inside reading from the Quran. Very moving.
We were not allowed in during prayer, but made our way to the side where we'd peaked in the day before. Over there we found 4 men getting ready to perform a chant. This chant would continue for the next half hour as the Quran contined to be read allowed.
It was a very powerful and emtional experience. Regardless of your personal beliefs, it was inspiring to see people from around the world come together to celebrate common goals of patience, purity, forgiveness, and humility. The true meaning of Ramadan.
Next morning it was Birthday Time! Kevin woke up early and suprised me with my favorite coffee (Nes Cafe), breakfast, fresh orange juice (the street vendors make the best!) and a single red rose in a turkish vase. I have the best husband ever!
After breakfast it was off to the Turkish bathhouse for some pampering! Obviously we didn't take pictures, but check out their website. http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr/asp/index.asp Regardless of what travel books and websites might tell you, this is truley the best in town!
After being massage and bathed to bliss (Kevin called it abuse), we headed out to Asia for lunch (see, I told you he's the best!)
proof that we were in Asia ;)And he even wine and dinned me at the local Turkish fast food joint...I'm tellin' ya ladies, he's a keeper!
post meal soup we assumed?...Headed back to the ferry terminal and back home to rest up before our Whirling Dervish show and dinner! I kid with Kevin that the whirling dervish show was the most boring thing I've ever done on my birthday, but he's not to blame...I had insisted.
An hour of our life we wish back, but a funny story for the grandkids somday...I guess! Off to dinner we went to spend our last few hours of our honeymoon celebrating over a turkish feast
Early the next morning it was off to the airport and back to reality. We were sad to see our honeymoon end, but eager to get home and start our new life together as husband and wife!
A trip of a lifetime: never forgotten, treasured forever.
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